Quite a few years back, an industry person gave me a little vial of corn rootworms. Not only does it contain actual rootworm larvae (worms), it also includes some tiny little rootworm eggs. The significance here is that corn rootworms are the single largest insect problem in corn production in the United States.

The corn rootworm larvae feed mainly on corn roots in the mid to late spring. The feeding negatively impacts corn plants in a couple of ways.

1. Physical loss of roots – less root mass to take in water and nutrients while providing the structure to hold the plant upright
2. Introduction of diseases – any open wound gives disease a chance to enter

Many American farmers are planting corn hybrids with biotech traits to help fight corn rootworms. We plant these on some of our acres. On the Blank Slate field my intention this year is to plant a hybrid without a corn rootworm biotech trait. It’s not a protest against biotech traits or anything. The hybrid I really think will perform the best on this ground isn’t available with a biotech rootworm trait. That’s no big deal to me. Instead, I plan to fight corn rootworms the old-fashioned way: with insecticide. The next paragraph is really the most important thing I’ll write today.

“Plant the best base germplasm for your farm. Then choose the right trait package it’s available in. Just because a hybrid has all the biotech traits inserted into it doesn’t make it a good hybrid.” I may take that topic up on a future blog post.

With corn rootworm, the only way to protect your crop is either with a biotech trait in the seed itself or with an insecticide applied at planting time. There’s no scouting for rootworms and then treating them later. Since I don’t have a corn rootworm trait, I’ll use a full rate of insecticide when I plant my corn. There are dry granule products like Force, Aztec, and Lorsban; and there is also a liquid product, Capture LFR.

The dry insecticides have performed better over the years in university trials and in the field. Part of the reason is the slower release of the insecticide off the dry granule compared to the liquid product where the insecticide is theoretically all available at once. Slow release is nice because we’ll plant corn the last 2 weeks of April and rootworms won’t begin their attack on corn plants until late May and early June. The other reason may be due to placement. There are 3 methods farmers use to place insecticides.

1. Band – all the insecticide is left on the soil surface in a 4 to 8 inch wide band directly over the row. This allows the insecticide to move down with rainfall. It also provides the best control for insects such as cutworms who work mainly at or near the soil surface. The other thing I like about leaving insecticide in a wider band is that is can protect up to an 8 inch wide profile of roots as it moves down in the soil.

2. In-furrow – all the insecticide is placed in the seed furrow. This is the best protection for seed-attacking insects such as seed corn beetles and seed corn maggots. The protection for rootworms is optimized in a couple inch diameter around the seed. It leaves roots that are further off to the side considerably more exposed to rootworm feeeding than a banded application in my opinion.

3. T-Band – a combination of the above two methods. Some of the insecticide is placed in-furrow and the rest is left in an above ground band. This is my favorite application method.

Of the dry products, Force and Aztec have done a little better job than Lorsban. All the dry products have been slightly better than the liquid Capture LFR. However, many farmers are not set up to apply dry insecticides, so the liquid is a great choice for them.

The other tempting thing is to mix liquid insecticide with liquid fertilizer to do two jobs at once. Capture LFR is FMC’s newest formulation. The “LFR” stands for “liquid fertilizer ready” indicating that it mixes much easier with fertilizer than previous formulations of Capture. My experience is that they are correct. The new formulation is much better, but still not perfect. We’ve found that temperature is a big factor in mixing. If the fertilizer is warm and the Capture LFR is warm, the products mix very well. If things are cold, like early in the corn planting season can often be, then you have to be pretty careful.

The other safety precaution we use is to jar test the fertilizer blend with the Capture. Basically you just mix up a small batch in a mason jar and see if they mix well or if they turn to something with the consistency of cottage cheese.

The safest alternative is to have two separate tanks: one with fertilizer and the other with insecticide. If you run two lines back to each row, you never have to be concerned with mixing issues.

I’ve had a lot of questions about Capture LFR this year, especially from Agro-Culture Liquid Fertilizer users and other farmers set up to apply a liquid starter. You can try mixing them if you want. I’d prefer to see guys set up with a two-line, two-tank system. As we do more variable rate fertilizer applications, this gives us the most flexibility to do what we want. Like on the Blank Slate for example, I plan to bump the fertilizer up 50% in some areas. If the insecticide was already mixed in the tank, I’d be forced to up that rate 50% as well which would not be a legal application.

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I’m speaking at an open house for our Lisbon ND store in the morning so I drove up tonight. Back home we’re getting some rain, which isn’t necessarily a blessing right now at the Blank Slate field. I have 3 lower areas that are tough to get through until I can get some tiling done.

I can’t complain, though. I could be getting the snow they’re getting here. The fields in Southern ND were already full of water. Tonight they got 4 inches of snow with more on the way tomorrow.

Enjoy the pictures below, and keep in mind spring will be here before we know it. If you’re in the Lisbon area tomorrow, please stop by!




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I can’t wait to see corn growing in our fields. It’s my favorite thing to look at in the spring. Actually it’s the first real report card for farmers. What’s the planting population and how much of what you put in the ground is up and growing? Determining exactly how many seeds to put in the ground really comes down to an educated guess.

We’ll try some planting population studies across our farm each year to gauge what works best on certain soil types. However, a year that has plentiful moisture will have completely different results compared to a drought year because none of our corn is irrigated.

We’re planning on varying the population as we go across the Blank Slate field this year. My eroded hilltops can not support as many plants per acre as my topsoil filled valleys. The plan going into the spring is to plant 25 to 26,000 seeds on the hills and 30 to 32,000 plants in the valley. All of this will go in 30 inch rows.

On the south side of this field we’ll run a twin row corn trial. Since we don’t own a twin row planter, we’ll take our 24 row Case planter set up to plant a row every 30 inches and simply plant twice. The first pass will be just like normal, but then we’ll turn around, move over about 7 inches, and plant another row right along side. We’ll end up with 2 rows 7 inches apart and then a 23 inch gap. Twin Row corn is getting more popular. In fact, we’ve done trials each of the last 2 years on our farm and have shown a yield advantage. The challenge to twin row is that you have to buy a different planter if you wanted to do any amount of acres. However, your tractors and other equipment could still be used. That’s the big benefit of twin rows versus switching to 20 inch rows. I know that’s elementary to full-time farmers, but there are many non-farmers following my blog so I’ll try to explain things for them as well.

In the twin row trial, we’ll do some at 40,000 plants per acre and some at 44,000. We had good luck with the higher populations last year at a location about 3 miles away, so we’ll see how it does on the Blank Slate. The other thing I’ll be watching is how good a job we can do moving residue out of the way in front of the planter. One of the biggest frustrations twin row farmers have had is trying to get last year’s crop residue moved sufficiently away so the gauge wheels don’t constantly have to bounce over cornstalks. Every time your gauge wheels bounce over something the result is inconsistent planting depth. I’ll explain that with pictures if the opportunity arises this spring.

One last comment today is about some of the animals working against my efforts on the Blank Slate. Terraces were installed in the field some years back to try to slow down the erosion problems by controlling the water flow. Terraces are nice for that, but they also provide a home for animals like badgers and coyotes. I wanted to include this picture from last summer mainly for my uncle Lynn and his son Kyle who want to help me take care of some coyotes. The coyotes have been digging into my terraces and even caused one terrace to break last year when we got some big rains. Good luck guys!

If you have questions or comments on my blog or other agriculture related topics, please let me know. I’m happy to answer as many questions as I can as time allows.

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I’m setting up my Droid to blog on the go. Here are a couple photos of a bulk seed handling facility we’re building at Centerville.

If this turns out, I’ll be able to send field pics and comments on the go through Blogger rather than just Twitter and Facebook.

Should have a Blank Slate post up later today.

Darren


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This picture doesn’t have anything to do with farming, but it makes me think of spring. It’s a photo of Frank Sinatra catching a baseball outside a film studio. The other neat thing about this is that Sammy Davis Jr. took the picture. When I’m done blogging today I’m going to head outside to play some ball with my boys. It’s 68 degrees here today!

Year 2 of the Blank Slate field will be corn on corn. Friends tell me I shouldn’t do this on ground with low levels of organic matter and fertility. I think it’s the perfect place for it. One of the initial challenges to deal with this spring will be determining what rate of Nitrogen to use and how to apply it.

The first thing we do on our farm when determining how much Nitrogen to apply is look at the Cation Exchange Capacity of our soil, which is commonly abbreviated CEC on soil tests. On a trip to Minot ND and Sidney MT yesterday, I got the chance to look at a number of soil tests from growers in those areas. NONE of them had a CEC test or base saturation. Frankly, the tests were barely worth the price of the paper they were written on. You see, the CEC test tells you the holding capacity of the soil. It’s a measure of 3 things:

1. The type of clay soil you have
2. The amount of clay your soil contains
3. The amount of organic matter your soil has.

By understanding the holding capacity of my soil at the Blank Slate, I can make an informed decision about how much Nitrogen I can responsibly use at one time. Without that test, I’m shooting in the dark. Soil has a negative electrical charge and Nitrogen, when it converts to the nitrate form, also has a negative charge. If you apply more than your soil can hold the result will be Nitrogen loss that could eventually end up in someone’s water. Here’s an example of how important that test is.

My CEC on the hilltops is as low as 12.2. In the valleys it’s as high as 22.3. We use a rule of thumb for Nitrogen application rates. The soil can hold about 10 times as many pounds of Nitrogen in a single application as the CEC.

12.2 CEC X 10 = approximately 122 pounds of Nitrogen my soil can hold on hilltops.
22.3 CEC X 10 = approximately 223 pounds of Nitrogen my soil can hold in valleys.

If you’re new to my blog, the Blank Slate field is a 60 acre field with 70 feet of drop from its highest point to the lowest. With that kind of slope, there has been a great deal of soil erosion over the years. While the field has terraces, they were installed far too late to do much to help the situation. Years of conventional tillage and the management of cash renters on a 12 month contract has been tough on the soil that I just purchased in the fall of 2009. As a result, much of my topsoil is either in the valleys of the field or washed down the hills into the neighbor’s fields.

So what am I doing with Nitrogen rates and application methods this year? I’ll get there in a minute. I have one more problem in addition to my highly variable CEC levels, I also have to deal with last year’s cornstalks. So far we’ve managed the cornstalk residue by using a chopping head on our Case IH combine in the fall and following up by strip-tilling an 8 inch wide path down the middle of the 30 inch rows. Cornstalks have a Carbon to Nitrogen ratio of 60 to 1. Soil bacteria need that ratio to be around 15 to 1 in order to begin breaking down those stalks. As a result, corn on corn and especially 1st year corn on corn needs a little extra Nitrogen in order to get that Carbon to Nitrogen ratio in line. Most guys in our area that are successful with corn on corn add another 50 pounds of Nitrogen per acre to account for the breakdown of cornstalks. That Nitrogen will eventually free back up for you, but not in time for helping this year’s crop.

With my 150 bushel yield from last fall, I will have at least 3 tons of cornstalks per acre to break down. This should allow me to safely place a little bit extra Nitrogen. I’m planning on putting 50 gallons of liquid 28% on this spring in a broadcast application on the soil surface with my pre-emerge herbicide. Each gallon of 28% contains about 3 pounds of Nitrogen.

3 lbs/gallon X 50 gallons = 150 pounds of applied Nitrogen.

In addition, I’m planning a sidedress application later so I can feed my crop as it begins to use up my pre-plant application of Nitrogen. I have another 25 gallons of 28% purchased, so I can add another 75 pounds of Nitrogen for my crop. I was just reading an article about how in the first 50 days, corn uses about 43% of the Nitrogen it needs for the year. If I wait to apply the rest of the Nitrogen rather than putting it all on at one time, my soil will then be able to hold it. Here’s a ridiculously long link if you’d like to read the article (which also talks about P, K and micros) that I mentioned above.

http://us1.campaign-archive1.com/?u=8bb09d67da2fac3b5bc596e17&id=f3209948ca&e=93f2a71e97

Nitrogen is a key nutrient. I’ll discuss the other nutrients I’m using as we get closer to planting. By the way, if the weather stays good we’ll begin planting on our farm in about 4 weeks.

Darren

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